Monday, October 24, 2011

Certified Mobile Technician, but not an expert, May I please get some assistance? Thank You.?

Hello everyone, I am in the process of working on a vehicle. I’m planning on turning an old car that’s just sitting in the garage into the decepticon, soundwave. To those who are transformer fans, you know who he is, to those who aren’t, he’s a transformer robot that transforms into a micro-cassette. The reason I choose this character is cause a feature he has is attacking with sound, and with approx 2000-watts pounding, that’s gotta annoy a lot of people in the neighbourhood :P



Before any questions arise I just want to say I work at CarStar so I do a lot of automotive body work and deal with a lot of work on cars, I am also certified with MECP , however I am not an expert on the practical end of car audio, but to become an expert you gotta learn from the experts, which is why I’m here.



So I do hope to get all the help I can get and I thank you all for your help in advance. Thanks.



So this is my project, as I stated earlier I am turning a Chevrolet cavalier into what I in-vision soundwave would be if he were a car. I’m not gonna explain how I’m gonna pull that off, just trust me, I know what I’m doing. But as for the car audio part, now that I’m no expert, so here’s where I need help.



These are my products; I have 2 Clarion DPX1800’s and 1 Clarion APX4240 Amps. For my subs, I will have 2 or 4 10” Kicker L5 Solo-Baric Subs, wired at 2 ohms from 1 DPX1800 amp, from the other DPX1800 amp I’m gonna pound a 15” Kicker L7 Solo-Baric Sub. Now my APX4240 is gonna power 4 Focal PolyGlass 165 VR3.



Before I begin I just want to say, I’m not gonna mention grounding, as that would be obvious to do, just a heads up.



Now this is what I plan on doing, upgrading the alternator to 160amps, changing the battery to an orbital cycle extreme-duty battery, and of course, upgrading the “big 3”.



I was gonna get a 250amp or 300amp anl fuse and an anl fuse holder and wire all of it from the battery to the trunk with 1/0-AWG wire. The I’ll distribute it into 3 4-AWG wires. The 3 4-awg wires would each connect to a 1 Farad cap, then connect to each of the amps. Then from the source unit which I haven’t decided on which to use, having my remote startup wire and 3 rca audio cables going down the other side of the car to each of the amps.



The Clarion APX4240 amp I’m gonna wire to behind the source unit and connect them to the harness’s speaker connections. Then I’m gonna connect the Focal PolyGlass 165 VR3 cables to the original wiring with a wiring harness and just do a little custom work to have it all in it’s proper location.



Now the Clarion DPX1800 amps, I’m gonna do some custom trunk work and I’ll be connecting one DPX1800 at 2 ohms to a 15” Kicker L7 Solo-Baric Subwoofer with 10-awg speaker wire. With the second DPX1800 I’ll be connecting at 2 ohms to 2 or 4 10” Kicker L5 Solo-Baric Subwoofers with 10-awg speaker wire.



I believe this is the proper way to do this procedure, however as I mentioned before, I’m no expert. So I need to know if this is correct, or if anyone has a better wiring method, or any advice and knowledge that can lend me a hand in this journey of mine.



Thank you in advance, i appreciate all the help.Certified Mobile Technician, but not an expert, May I please get some assistance? Thank You.?It's been a while since I've installed caps, but I think they should go before any distribution block. I would run the remote with the main power side of the vehicle also. I know it is pretty much a non issue, but as a rule of thumb, I always isolate. Have fun.



Ground properly! J/K lol. Certified Mobile Technician, but not an expert, May I please get some assistance? Thank You.?Yahoo Answers is a laughable place to look for advice on car audio. No one, and I mean no one, is anywhere near an expert on here. I'd suggest you check out some dedicated audio forums and post this there.



Two of my favorite forums are:

soundsolutionsaudio.com

caraudio.com

(with soundsolutions being by far the more serious of the two)



You do seem to have a good, general understanding of the whole process of wiring, but you'd be making a huge mistake by using two different types of subwoofers. Do not mix and match. Make sure all the drivers are the same in every aspect, meaning the same enclosure, the same resistance, and the same power.



I'd also advise that you ditch the capacitors. They really won't give you any benefit at all. Use that money to upgrade your battery or get more batteries.