hey i have a 91 acura gs. Sometimes when i don't start it for two days, it doesn't want to start anymore (unless i use a jump cable), and when i start it and don't move for too long (stand still), the battery seems to become weak, and the car dies (then i need to jump cable it to restart). If i drive, it seems that my car works fine. could it be my alternator? or my battery? but the thing is that i changed my alternator and my battery 7 months ago. i know that sometime that alternator can be defective. 7 months ago, when i changed my alternator, one of my friend did it for me, so i just bought the alternator. i was wondering how much it will cost me it i take it too a garage if the cause of the problem is the alternator. tks for any helps.Is my alternator dead?IT IS NOT UR BATTERY....ITS EITHER UR ALTERNATOR OR UR BATTERY TERMINALS ARE CORRODED
CHECK THE TERMINALS FIRST AND IF THEY ARE JUST GET THEM CLEANED BUT IF NOT IT IS UR ALTERNATORIs my alternator dead?to check the alternator pull the positive terminal off with it running if the car stalls the alt is bad. if not its working. sounds like the battery is shot and if you've run it dead enough times that's probably why. it should still be under warranty after only 7 months take it back they should test it and replace it if it's bad for free. also check and clean all the terminal connections on the battery and alt.Is my alternator dead?you need to take the alternator to the auto parts store. they will check it for free. also take your battery. and you can decide from there what you will need.Is my alternator dead?Probably the battery..
Take it to almost any auto parts
store or Wal Mart and they will
test both the battery and alternator
for free...Is my alternator dead?yep sounds like the alternator also check ur battery cables and grounds.Is my alternator dead?It's a crappy battery.Is my alternator dead?First make sure your connections are tight and clean. A battery brush costs a few dollars at a parts store, use it to clean the terminals and posts to shiny metal.
Use a multimeter to check the voltage before you start it, it should be around or slightly over 12v. A cheap multimeter can be had at Wal -Mart for $20.
After starting the car, the alternator should be charging the battery at 14.5 volts or pretty close to that. If it's only charging at 12 volts, it is a defective alternator, or voltage regulator. It could also be a poor connection.
Drive the car with the meter hooked up to the cigarette lighter port. (Get help for this one) If the car isn't charging but suddenly kicks in while driving then either the alternator is bad or the circuit that activates the alternator is bad.
DO NOT test the system by disconnecting the battery cable with the car running! This worked in 1955 when cars had generators instead of alternators. On a modern car you stand a good chance of frying your computer and costing yourself a lot more money.
Many places will test your charging for free, but remember that they profit from a car that needs repair, so be cautious.
Monday, September 19, 2011
How much will a complete tune up cost on an 1993 model just purchased?
I'm considering buying a 1993 mitsubishi eclipse with around 130,000 miles. He has apparently recently changed the alternator belt, the ac belt, radiator and put in a new battery. I want to keep this car running for a decent amount of time, hopefully past 200,000. If i want to keep it in shape exactly what other parts should i replace and how much will each part cost to install (I will not be preforming any repairs or replacements). How often should i replace these as well?
Any other tips when buying a used first car from a private party, please share.How much will a complete tune up cost on an 1993 model just purchased?Have a mechanic do a complete inspection, especially on a high mileage vehicle. Get receipts and dates/mileage records for repairs made.Whatever car you buy, get a repair manual from an auto parts store for that car - it will have basic repair info, along w/photos. Look online at www.edmunds.com for car pricing and reliability infoHow much will a complete tune up cost on an 1993 model just purchased?Don't believe what the seller tells you about any repairs unless the seller has the receipts to prove the repairs were actually performed.
There is no way to tell what any parts will need to be replaced.How much will a complete tune up cost on an 1993 model just purchased?lots of money
Any other tips when buying a used first car from a private party, please share.How much will a complete tune up cost on an 1993 model just purchased?Have a mechanic do a complete inspection, especially on a high mileage vehicle. Get receipts and dates/mileage records for repairs made.Whatever car you buy, get a repair manual from an auto parts store for that car - it will have basic repair info, along w/photos. Look online at www.edmunds.com for car pricing and reliability infoHow much will a complete tune up cost on an 1993 model just purchased?Don't believe what the seller tells you about any repairs unless the seller has the receipts to prove the repairs were actually performed.
There is no way to tell what any parts will need to be replaced.How much will a complete tune up cost on an 1993 model just purchased?lots of money
I have a 2003 cobra and i need help changing the alternator.?
i have a 2003 svt cobra, and the alternator is bad. ive taken both the top and bottom bolts off so the alternator is loose right now, but i cant seem to get the clip off the bottom where the two wires plug into the alternator, how do i get that clip off? and once i get the clip off how do i turn or move the alternator to get it out cause i dont see how its gonna fit out of there, mostly just need help with the clip/plug getting it off, please help thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I have a 2003 cobra and i need help changing the alternator.?There should be a loosening mechanism for the clip.myspace icons myspace top
CHANGING OUT ALTERNATOR 03 VETTE?
My alternator just died on my 2003 Vette. The past couple of days it has rained pretty hard here in southern california. My battery was diminishing little by little this past month and today it finally died while at the gas station.
I don't have the time or desire to take it into the shop let alone I don't want to pay out cash for something I can do myself. I am mechanically inclined and know how to turn wrenches the only problem im running into is i've never removed a serpentine belt on a corvette. I've had it for a little over 2years. Being late on a sunday, my resources were limited. Can someone walk me through the removal of the serpentine belt so that I can remove the alternator. I would really appreciated it.CHANGING OUT ALTERNATOR 03 VETTE?your gonna love this belt system. locate tensioner,remove tension.that simple.just start looking, its an idler pulley with a springloaded arm.CHANGING OUT ALTERNATOR 03 VETTE?first off should be 1/2 socket/wrench, grad a breaker bar your gonna need it. (although not to hard without, will make it a lot easier on you), the tensioner is going to be located below the alternator but above the crankshaft, bolt will rotate clockwise to release the tension. and you should be set to go...a little word of advice, i dont know how often you use the vehicle, or how hard you drive it, but if your getting around 10,000 might be just as easy to replace it while you have it off?
I don't have the time or desire to take it into the shop let alone I don't want to pay out cash for something I can do myself. I am mechanically inclined and know how to turn wrenches the only problem im running into is i've never removed a serpentine belt on a corvette. I've had it for a little over 2years. Being late on a sunday, my resources were limited. Can someone walk me through the removal of the serpentine belt so that I can remove the alternator. I would really appreciated it.CHANGING OUT ALTERNATOR 03 VETTE?your gonna love this belt system. locate tensioner,remove tension.that simple.just start looking, its an idler pulley with a springloaded arm.CHANGING OUT ALTERNATOR 03 VETTE?first off should be 1/2 socket/wrench, grad a breaker bar your gonna need it. (although not to hard without, will make it a lot easier on you), the tensioner is going to be located below the alternator but above the crankshaft, bolt will rotate clockwise to release the tension. and you should be set to go...a little word of advice, i dont know how often you use the vehicle, or how hard you drive it, but if your getting around 10,000 might be just as easy to replace it while you have it off?
I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?
I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY AND THE ALTERNATOR BUT IT WONę©³ RUN. THE BATTERY DIED ON ME AND IT SEEMED AS THOUGH IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED BASED ON HOW OLD IT WAS SO I STARTED THERE. AFTER A FEW DAYS IT STARTED TO REPEAT HAVING A HARD TIME STARTING NEEDING A JUMP TO START SO I MADE THE NEXT MOVE TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR. WITH THE ALTERNATOR REPLACED AND ALL CONNECTIONS TO THE ALTERNATOR CLEANED, CONNECTIONS RESTORED IN CORRECT LOCATIONS AND CORRECT BELT TENSION I CANNOT GET IT TO STAY RUNNING. THE ENGINE TURNS OVER AND SOUNDS LIKE IT WANTS TO RUN BUT DIES WITHIN ABOUT 2 SECONDS. I CHARGED THE BATTERY AND TESTED THE VOLTAGE MAKING SURE IT GOT A FULL CHARGE BUT IT STILL WONę©³ GO. I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE CLAMPS FOR THE BATTERY POSTS ARE A LITTLE COROADED SO THOSE ARE GETTING REPLACED ASAP AS WELL AS REPLACING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR. ALSO, IT WONT START OFF OF A JUMP START... ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?Voltage regulator is a possibility, it may not be allowing enough voltage through.
A weak condenser can certainly cause it to not run correctly, as can worn out points. They're usually sold as a set, so replace both at the same time.
Another item that can cause it to start and not keep running is the ignition ballast.
What's a ballast? you might be asking. It's a part of the points type ignition system that reduces the voltage to the coil to about 9 volts. Many had a bypass that allowed the full 12v to the coil during start-up for easier starts, some were temperature controlled where they allowed a full 12v to the coil, then once they started to warm up, the voltage would decrease, and they can get very hot.
The ballast will be mounted to the firewall, on my '65, it was near the center on the driver's side. It will be a ceramic block with a metal bracket to hold it onto the firewall, and a terminal on each side, one from the battery, and one to the coil. It should be easy to follow the wires to see where each one goes. You can test the ballast with a voltmeter to see if it's allowing voltage through, or an ohmmeter to see if it's reading a certain amount of ohms, or an open circuit. An open circuit means it's broken, of course, and needs replacing, if it allows anywhere from about 8v to 12v, it should be okay.
You'll probably need to learn how to set the points yourself since there's not too many technicians who know how to do that anymore (I've known a few who had never even heard of points before). Here's a link to an article explaining how on Allpar.com http://www.allpar.com/fix/points.htmlI just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?less typing in caps and more buying a newer car.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?sorta limited on info but 1966 new yorker im sure still has a points ignition system. these can be very picky to get right. i would take the dist cap off and sand the points or replace them (they're cheap). you will need to set them with a fealer guage.. good luck hope this helps
http://www.uartech.com/I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?gotta reset the alarm system/thats what is now shutting you DOWN/no points in that systemI just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?It might be a bad ground. This might sound crazy but connect one side of your positive jumper cables to the connection on the starter and ground the negative side, then connect the other ends to your battery and try to start it. If it starts then it has to be the battery's ground or the connection to the starter.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?If your '66 still has the original points and condensor distributor you may have a bad condensor and a bad condensor will perform as you have stated, poor running right up to the point of not starting at all. Or it's possible the points have slipped and are closed, gap between .014 - .019 ( I believe were the specs).
Chrysler Corp. replaced the old distributor for just that reason, reliability.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?Check your points for burning and pitting, better yet, replace them and the condenser. Also could be the ignition ballast resistor. A symptom of a bad resistor is that the engine will start but as soon as you let go of the key, it dies. Check it with an ohmmeter. A bad one will read very high resistance, or infinity. It's mounted on the firewall, about 2-3 inches long, half inch thick, looks like a white crayon with a wire coming off each end. Chrysler products of the this vintage were notorious for burning these resistors out. Lots of owners used to carry a spare in their glovebox.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?Like mark b said. voltage regulator. black box on the firewall 4%26quot;x4%26quot;
A weak condenser can certainly cause it to not run correctly, as can worn out points. They're usually sold as a set, so replace both at the same time.
Another item that can cause it to start and not keep running is the ignition ballast.
What's a ballast? you might be asking. It's a part of the points type ignition system that reduces the voltage to the coil to about 9 volts. Many had a bypass that allowed the full 12v to the coil during start-up for easier starts, some were temperature controlled where they allowed a full 12v to the coil, then once they started to warm up, the voltage would decrease, and they can get very hot.
The ballast will be mounted to the firewall, on my '65, it was near the center on the driver's side. It will be a ceramic block with a metal bracket to hold it onto the firewall, and a terminal on each side, one from the battery, and one to the coil. It should be easy to follow the wires to see where each one goes. You can test the ballast with a voltmeter to see if it's allowing voltage through, or an ohmmeter to see if it's reading a certain amount of ohms, or an open circuit. An open circuit means it's broken, of course, and needs replacing, if it allows anywhere from about 8v to 12v, it should be okay.
You'll probably need to learn how to set the points yourself since there's not too many technicians who know how to do that anymore (I've known a few who had never even heard of points before). Here's a link to an article explaining how on Allpar.com http://www.allpar.com/fix/points.htmlI just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?less typing in caps and more buying a newer car.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?sorta limited on info but 1966 new yorker im sure still has a points ignition system. these can be very picky to get right. i would take the dist cap off and sand the points or replace them (they're cheap). you will need to set them with a fealer guage.. good luck hope this helps
http://www.uartech.com/I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?gotta reset the alarm system/thats what is now shutting you DOWN/no points in that systemI just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?It might be a bad ground. This might sound crazy but connect one side of your positive jumper cables to the connection on the starter and ground the negative side, then connect the other ends to your battery and try to start it. If it starts then it has to be the battery's ground or the connection to the starter.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?If your '66 still has the original points and condensor distributor you may have a bad condensor and a bad condensor will perform as you have stated, poor running right up to the point of not starting at all. Or it's possible the points have slipped and are closed, gap between .014 - .019 ( I believe were the specs).
Chrysler Corp. replaced the old distributor for just that reason, reliability.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?Check your points for burning and pitting, better yet, replace them and the condenser. Also could be the ignition ballast resistor. A symptom of a bad resistor is that the engine will start but as soon as you let go of the key, it dies. Check it with an ohmmeter. A bad one will read very high resistance, or infinity. It's mounted on the firewall, about 2-3 inches long, half inch thick, looks like a white crayon with a wire coming off each end. Chrysler products of the this vintage were notorious for burning these resistors out. Lots of owners used to carry a spare in their glovebox.I just changed the alternator and battery on my 1966 Chrysler New Yorker and now it won't run?Like mark b said. voltage regulator. black box on the firewall 4%26quot;x4%26quot;
How do I clean the Fuel pump, filters and tank cleaning on a 95' plymouth neon?
I have a 95 plymouth neon that was sitting for about 6months. i recently bought it and changed the alternator. The car was running great i put fuel in it and gas line antifreeze. When i tried to start it this morning it would turn over but wouldnt run. A friend suggested that the gas that was in it could have been to old. and maybe clogged my fuel fliter or fuel pump... Is there anyway or any product to clean this tank, filters, and fuel pump. without replaceing them.How do I clean the Fuel pump, filters and tank cleaning on a 95' plymouth neon?you can add cleaners through the gas to clean it out but that may not get it started again,you may wind up having to replace the pump in it because once they been setting for a while sometimes they will go out and cause a lack of fuel to the engine,if it were me id check the pump pressure and also check the relay for it,before i pulled the tank off it,you cant really clean it out good without removing it,adding chemical cleaner to it only loosens up more junk and causes it to stop the strainer up more on it,there's also a fuse for the pump you need to check to make sure it hasn't blown on it,good luck with it.
HELP! C-class Mercedes alternator/battery light wont go away!!?
i have a c-class 2005 and the red light came on and said alternator/battery, my husband changed the alternator but the light doesn't go off!!! does anyone know how to do this?!HELP! C-class Mercedes alternator/battery light wont go away!!?have the same problem with my 1994 MB. I had to replace my alternator and they still came on... I replaced the battery and they still come on. new belts still come on. at first it burned the main relay on the battery. I took it to an automotive electrician and they said they couldn't figure it out. Have you installed anything new and electrical? mine started after I put fog lights on my car. those two lights are only on when the alternator isn't charging properly so it sounds as though your alternator is going out, which is $100-$300 to replace don't go through a mechanic if all possible because they will charge you immensely to install it. its typically 2 or 3 bolts and shimmy it to loosen the belt off.HELP! C-class Mercedes alternator/battery light wont go away!!?i have an 05 c320.. i would take it to an auto electrician if i were you. this seems abnormal
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